Reflecting Back

In mid-February, the Swiss Alps had nearly depleted their culinary delights. A strong craving emerged, making my mouth feel pasty, with a few spasms and eyes widening in anticipation. When such moments hit, we crank up wepowder.com notifications, heightening our senses to catch any hint of fresh snow within a 200-kilometer radius.

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GENERAL ALERT

A major storm system has reached the southern Alps, with the most intense front focused on the Dolomites. Decision made—we’re headed to San Martino di Castrozza, a resort I fell for during a 2018 film project. It was love at first sight, and I promised myself a return visit. I reached out to friends Vincent, Alex, and Nico, and they were all in. Andiamo.

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San Martino di Castrozza

Though the Dolomites are famed for upscale resorts like Val Gardena and Cortina, this lesser-known gem in the southern Dolomites has its perks:

1. Eric, the Mountain Guide: A skilled guide and skier, Eric eagerly traded his American soldiers for Swiss skiers for a few days. With the GIs stationed in Vicenza post-World War II, they’d hone their "alpine techniques" (dreamy skiing with a midday pizza break). "Drop cliffs, not bombs."

2.Hotel Regina 4 and Carla: Carla’s Hotel Regina is a favorite among freeriders, hosting legends from Simone Morro to Messner. The lobby is adorned with alpine art and historical illustrations, including a Club Alpino Italiano poster. Its message, "NEVER GO ALONE: INDICATE YOUR GOAL," struck me like a premonition.

3.The Pale di San Martino Massif: This high plateau, accessible via the La Rosetta gondola, is a treasure trove of couloirs and valleys, far removed from Italy’s major resorts. The tranquillity here is palpable. The terrain is often interspersed with abseils and ends in wild, untracked valleys, reducing skier numbers.

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Tramadol e Trento DOC

On our third day, conditions were superb. The otherworldly landscape was breathtaking. After two exhilarating runs, we ventured into a secluded valley. The snow was light, and the sun played hide-and-seek behind the Dolomite peaks. Alone in this magical realm, I prepared to capture the moment on camera when—STOP! To my right, an inert body. Traces of blood were evident thirty meters upstream. In an instant, the scene shifted. I rushed to the man—he was still alive. Attempts to call for help failed due to no signal. Nico and Alex climbed back up the pass for phone coverage, knowing it would take at least an hour. Vincent, with his first-aid skills and an aspiring doctor’s kit, attended to the survivor. Among the supplies was tramadol, which quickly alleviated the man's pain. He asked how many more turns until we arrived, seemingly still on the slopes. An hour later, a helicopter whisked the miraculous survivor away.

We returned to the hotel at night, savoring the finest Trento DOC and the tastiest polenta. We spent the final two days skiing the magnificent terrain together.

 Il Miracoloso

We later discovered that the miraculous survivor had suffered two broken vertebrae—a true miracle considering a 200-meter fall. The man had literally fallen from the sky. To be honest, so did we.

We also learned that we were the first to ski this valley for the season. Reflecting on the decision to choose this route over another, I realize that sometimes, life’s chances are as fleeting as they are profound.